The question of why French croissants taste so much better than their international counterparts takes us deep into the world of the science of flour. While many people look for the secret in the butter or the technique, the story of the perfect croissant begins with the selection of the flour. French flour classification is fundamentally different from German flour classification.
In France, flour is classified according to its mineral content – a system reflected in the T-values. Between the finest T45 and the baguette flour T65 (La Banette) lies the versatile T55 (Farine de Froment), the all-rounder of French cuisine. With its balanced gluten content and fine texture, it is ideal for crêpes, tarts and classic pastries. It gives baked goods an especially even, light-coloured crumb and a silky texture. The even finer T45, also known as ‘Farine de gruau’, is the star among French flours. With its exceptionally high gluten content, it is the basis for the characteristic texture of French croissants and brioches. The fine, regular air bubbles in the crumb, which first crack gently when bitten and then melt on the tongue, are thanks to this special flour.
No less interesting is the T65, the ‘baguette flour’ of France. With a gluten content of 10 to 12 per cent, it even surpasses the strongest German flours of type 550, which usually range from 8 to 9.6 per cent. But it is not only the amount of gluten that makes the difference. French mills carefully select their wheat varieties according to the quality of the gluten, its elasticity and extensibility. These properties, coupled with traditional milling methods and strict quality controls, create flours that are perfectly suited for long dough resting times and intensive processing.
The result of this care is particularly evident in pastries such as croissants and tarts. They develop a unique, airy texture that is both stable and delicate. Master bakers in France skilfully exploit these properties by giving the dough time to fully develop its aromas and structure. The longer resting times and precise temperature control help to perfect the interplay of all factors.
The French bread flours T65 and T45 are designed for a higher protein and gluten content and for good extensibility of the dough, whereas German flour is optimised for the machine-supported production of small baked goods such as rolls.
The German flour with the strongest gluten has about the same gluten content as the French flour with the weakest gluten.
Our croissant recipe
For the basic dough
500 g French T45 flour
10 g fresh yeast
10 g salt
55 g sugar
300 ml cold whole milk
55 g soft butter
For the tourage (butter layer)
250 g cold French butter
Note on selecting the type of flour
Traditionally, T45 is used for particularly fine, airy croissants. T55 is a very good alternative and is the preferred flour for croissants in France. The combination of T45 and T55 (in a ratio of 70:30) is preferred by some bakers for its optimal combination of stability and lightness.
Preparation
Mix all the ingredients for the basic dough into a smooth dough.
Leave to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature, then for 8 hours in the refrigerator.
Roll out the butter into a rectangle (15x 20 cm).
Roll out the dough to 20 x 40 cm, fold in the butter.
Now, as they say in French pâtisserie, the ‘tour’ begins. This is the folding of the puff pastry. The process is very well explained by @getflourish: make a triple turn, chill for 30 minutes.
Second triple turn, chill again for 30 minutes.
Single turn, chill for 30 minutes.
Roll out the dough to 3–4 mm thick, cut out triangles.
Form croissants, leave to rise for 2–3 hours.
At 200°C, the croissants will bake for about 15 to 18 minutes until golden brown.
The secret lies in precise temperature control and the quality of the basic ingredients. The butter should always be cold but pliable, and the dough must not be allowed to get too warm. This combination of high-quality flour, traditional techniques and patience is what creates the croissants we associate with French baking – crisp, airy and with an incomparable texture.
This differentiation of flour types shows the depth of the French baking tradition, in which each flour has its specific use and significantly influences the characteristics of the end product. You can order excellent products for French cooking and baking on the Internet from specialised dealers who import French flours into Germany.
In Germany, I like to order from Aurélie Bastian. French cooking & baking:
Literature
Bastian, Aurélie (2017): Französisch backen: Meine Lieblingsrezepte. – Südwest-Verlag.
Kayser, Éric (2019): Le Larousse du Pain: 80 recettes de pains et viennoiseries. – Larousse.
Kayser, Éric (2021): Le Grand Livre du Pain: 50 recettes authentiques pour (re)découvrir le pain. – Larousse.
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